Day 2: 09.06.2024, 157km, 772hm
An almost explosive crack from my drive train. I stop pedalling and look down between my legs. My chainring has come off.
I started very early, I was already on my bike before 6:00. I enjoy riding through the villages on Sunday mornings. It’s so quiet, so unspoilt. I don’t have to worry about cars. The first 50 kilometres are done by 8:15.
On the road at dawn
Sunday morning emptiness
I cross the Danube and have to make small detours to avoid the high water. Then I cycle along the Altmühl for a long time. The route is relatively relaxed, with lots of forest tracks and cycle paths, and I encounter many cyclists on e-bikes. The landscape looks relatively familiar, with forests alternating with fields and a village in between. The poppies are in bloom.
I had planned to cycle 200 kilometres today and wanted to spend the night with Tim in Erlangen. I’d never ridden that far before, but I thought I could do it in good conditions. I actually fought hard. My crankset broke at around kilometre 140. Before that, I had already decided to put my 35kg bike on its side in the face of a hill, refill the drive in the bio engine (the sausage roll I got as a present yesterday) and take a nap.
Whether it’s the heavy luggage or the fact that I’m currently out of shape, 140km hasn’t been this exhausting for a long time.
Exhausted lunch break at 100km
Usually, my mood is relatively immune to obstacles and misfortune on such tours. Not today. When my crankset breaks, I’m sitting at the side of the road almost crying, and later I’m in tears over a non-alcoholic beer at the pub. I feel pretty desperate and alone. I had a hard time letting go of the idea of breaking the 200 kilometre mark today. Maybe I was also worried that instead of heading for a safe place to sleep, I’d have to go searching again. And, of course, I’m still very attached to the destination rather than the route, so I’m missing out a little on enjoying the journey.
I take a break and clear my head at the Rothsee, into which I hop on my bike. After that, I feel more confident again.
Am Rothsee
When I’m looking for a place to sleep, however, the Franconians are a little more reserved than I had previously experienced with the Upper Bavarians. When the third person tells me “Space for your tent? I don’t know about that” while standing in her large meadow, I am frustrated and worry about finding a place for the night. Then I’m lucky: Mrs Seitz is sitting in front of her yellow farmhouse and I approach her. She is reserved, perhaps a little sceptical of strangers, but offers me a place in the hall anyway. She provides me with a cheese sandwich and I get to know her son, daughter-in-law and kitten Molly with her one-month-old cub.
Hello, Molly! (and see the bundle on the far left
Beautiful light and beautiful cows with the Seitz family
Despite everything, I’ve probably travelled further today than ever before, so I should actually be proud. I’m not that far yet, but I’m glad to be warm and safe for the night.